Raglan Sleeve Fleece Jacket

Raglan Sleeve Fleece Jacket

Can you believe I made this on a hot summer day? I had been attending Yoga classes and the room was so cold all I could think about was wanting a cozy fleece jacket to keep me warm! I had wanted to sew this raglan sleeve bomber-style jacket ages ago, but never seemed to find the time, but when I spent a chilly hour feeling like a frozen popsicle trying to do yoga, that was clearly all the motivation I needed to get this project done. 

It's done...it's cozy...it's comfortable and warm and I will certainly use it for more than yoga classes!

If you're interested in drawing a raglan sleeve from your Sure-Fit Designs Dress Kit bodice blueprint, just follow the directions from Fashion Leaflet #1 for Raglan Sleeve Designing It's an easy download for just $1.49.  This particular raglan sleeve is called a one-piece raglan even though it has the shoulder dart.  A two-piece raglan sleeve splits the sleeve open to the sleeve hem and consequently conceals the shape of the shoulder dart in the seaming.

Because I wanted a bomber-style jacket, I made these modifications to the pattern:
1. Drop the CF neck line 5/8".
2. Drop and widen the bodice underarm 5/8".
3. Drop and widen the sleeve underarm 5/8".
4. Continue the extra side seam width (from widening the underarm) down to the hem level.
5. Add ribbing 2 3/4" wide at hip level and to finish the sleeve 'cuff''.
6. Add a curved, patch-style of pocket and finished the opening with 1" wide ribbing.

7. Use the CoverStitch machine to topstitch significant seams like the raglan, the bust dart, the shoulder dart and to attach the pocket to the jacket.

8. Then finished it off with an exposed zipper at center front and used the Mandarin Collar pattern from the Sure-Fit Designs Collar Collection (included in the Dress Kit) to complete the neck edge.

The fit is comfortable over a regular T-Shirt, but if I wanted to wear it over top of something heavier (like a sweatshirt), I'd recommend widening the underarm approximately another 1/2" (1.3 cm) and lowering the underarm an additional 5/8" (1.6cm).  It all depends on how bulky the garment is that is being worn underneath.

Happy fitting and sewing!

Glenda the Good Stitch

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1 comment

Good evening Glenda,

I have three questions about this fleece jacket.
1. Did you use a facing in either the collar or front bodice?
2. I would like to move half of the dart to the waist and leave the other half in place. I think the fleece is too thick to put a “D” dart on the side. I move darts all the time but usually the entire structure. Is my plan viable?
3. Do you have a favorite website that sells quality ribbing?

I was planning to make a raglan jacket for the fall using the raglan tops instruction in Sure Fit Academy, using the Dress Kit at least up to the point of splitting the sleeve. Thank you for directing me to Fashion Leaflet #1. Now I have two sources to ensure I do not make any drafting mistakes.

Thank you,
Pat Christy

Pat Christy

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