Pockets for Pull-on Pants
Posted on March 14 2022
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Recently a customer brought up a good question. When designing and sewing a pair of pull-on pants with an elastic waist edge, what is the best design shape for the inseam pocket so that it will extend up into the waist edge for stability, yet without causing too much bulk?
Here is short blog with a clear illustration of the design change to make to the Inseam Pocket shape provided in your Sure-Fit Designs Pants master patterns.
The original inseam pocket shape (from the Pants master pattern sheet) is drawn in pencil and is indicated with black arrows.
Alternative #1 is to re-draw the pocket shape as indicated with my red lines. You're basically taking the tear drop pocket shape a little wider at the top and extend it about 1/2" into the casing allowance for the elastic. In this example, the elastic to be used is planned at 1" wide, therefore the casing requirement is drawn at 2" wide. This will give more stability to the pocket so that it's not flopping around on the inside of the pants, and the 1/2" extension into the casing means the top of the pocket will get enclosed as the fold is made in the casing.
Alternative #2, which is indicated by the green lines takes the pocket pretty much straight up and extends it 1" (or almost 1") into the casing allotment. This alternative would definitely added more width-wise stability, but will add a little more bulk in the casing.
If you were using a medium to heavy weight knit for these pull-on pants, I'd suggest using Alternative #1. If using a lighter weight knit, then Alternative #2 would be appropriate. The choice is yours but it will primarily depend on your fabric weight.
Give a try re-drawing the pocket shape. It's easy to do and will result in a much more stable pocket on the inside.
Directions for sewing this particular style of inseam pocket are found on Page 25 of the Sure-Fit Designs Pants Kit Instruction Book.
Directions for designing the Pull-on Pants are found on Page 24 of the Sure-Fit Designs Pants Kit Instruction Book.
Glenda the Good Stitch